Champagne, decent Chablis, and an off-dry Rheingau Riesling. The empty bottles from an indulgent weekend reflect my high acid preferences, and I know I’m not alone.

But can white wines with lower acidity still bring joy, or is flabbiness inevitable?

Rhône Valley whites account for less than 10% of this vast region’s output, and I’ve often dismissed them as low acid, so not for me. But these rarer bottles deserve more attention.

The case for Rhône whites

It’s true that many of the Rhône’s most popular white grapes struggle for acid, and rising Med temperatures are not helping. Grenache Blanc, the bare canvas for many blends, lacks zest, as do Clairette and Marsanne. But Roussanne – preferred in the south – has more spine: a deep-set acid according to Decanter writer, Matt Walls.² Then there’s the Vaucluse native Bourboulenc, which can hold its own on the acid front, even as a late-ripening grape. Also rising in popularity is Piquepoul Blanc, said to mean ‘lip-stinger’ in Occitan on behalf of its acidity. And remember in the Southern Rhône, producers blend, so a little bit of acid can go a long way.
Other techniques can also maximise acid: grapes can be picked early, and malolactic softening prevented during fermentation.

Secondly, some wines give freshness from other elements. Consider for a moment the vigour on your palate from a sip of fino sherry? Palomino is not a high acid grape, so other structural magic is at play.³ In the Rhône this is most apparent with the minerality expressed when Grenache Blanc is grown on limestone, and also in Viognier from granite soils. Paul Amsellem of Domaine Georges Vernay attributes a mineral salinity in their Condrieu to granite soils with mica. Minerality is a controversial concept in wine, but I find it’s frequently a refreshing presence on the palate in the Rhône.⁴

Then there’s a pithy, grapefruit finish to many of these wines which evokes structure in the mouth, preventing flabbiness. This is quite a tell in blind tasting and I find it particularly in Viognier. Lift can also come from the Spring fresh blossom aromas in some of these grapes. Clairette and Roussanne are fragrant examples.

And finally, Rhône whites are really designed to be enjoyed with food. As a heathen Brit I’m used to chugging Chablis in the pub with a handful of peanuts covering all major food groups. Thankfully, it’s not the same in the Rhône, where wine and a proper meal go hand-in-hand. And what makes a food friendly wine? I’d argue not buckets of acid, because a wine that’s continually cleansing your palate can overwhelm certain dishes. Bracing acidity just isn’t great with common Rhône produce such as fresh dressed salads, olive tapenade, vegetables or cheese tarts.

Instead Rhône whites offer something of a glycerol, silky quality that works with many dishes. Often aided by medium-plus alcohol levels, your palate feels coated and rich rather than cleansed, but with no cloying sugars. Rhône fan and wine presenter Joe Wadsack described them as pillowy, which feels appropriate given the seductive nature of these wines.⁵ So drinkers, step out of your acid comfort zone and give these Rhône whites a try. Just be sure to indulge alongside a good meal, and save your peanuts for the Chablis.

The author is a WSG Rhône Master (Highest Honours) and a current DipWSET student

Are you an Acid Addict but ready to give Rhône whites a try? See elsewhere on bloomingwine.com for some great examples.

Notes and sources:

1. A tasting at Domaine La Fourmone in Vacqueyras of their ‘le Fleurantine’ 2020 and also a London lunch hosted by the very talented Mathieu of Noize restaurant and Fiona of the Belleville Collective. Also a wonderful tasting with veteran winemaker Alain Ignace in Beaumes-de-Venise over summer.
2. ‘Wines of the Rhône’ by Matt Walls, published by Infinite Ideas. This is a brilliant resource for Rhône wine fans and Matt’s writing is superb. ‘Deep spine’ is a descriptor from ‘Essential Winetasting’ by Michael Schuster.
3. Salinity in Sherry is fascinating. For more see Alex Russan’s article ‘The Science of Salinity in Wine’, on SevenFiftyDaily, Feb 7, 2022
4. The WSET tasting SAT insists on ‘wet stones’ rather than mineral! There are many words written on what minerality actually means and indeed if soil can impart a sense of it to the wine. I would recommend (in small doses) Alex Maltman’s excellent book ‘Vineyards, Rocks and Soils: The Winelover’s Guide to Geology’.
5. Wine of the Times Podcast Series for Côtes du Rhône/The Belleville Collective, 2021